Mont Saint-Michèl

We were off the ferry boat by 8 am and after the most tedious rental car acquisition we were on our way Josh’s most anticipated activity:

The abbey at Mont Saint-Michèl! Located in the Normandy region of France, this is the famous floating cathedral. Built on an island surrounded by water and quicksand, it was once only accessible via a dangerous low tide trek.

Now, visitors can access it via the safety of a bridge (even on a bus for pilgrims who would rather save their energy for the many, many steps at the abbey).

Once across the bridge, we headed straight for the top!

Legends tell us that Saint Aubert of Avranches was first instructed to build on the original site by Archangel Michael who appears to him in a vision. Aubert initially ignored the vision but Archangel Michael persisted and continued to appear. Finally, Archangel Michael appeared and poked Aubert in the head (leaving a hole in his skull). This finally moved Aubert to action and the original oratory was opened on October 16, 709.

The site changed ownership amongst various dynasties over the years and, by the late 1300s, it was upgraded with additional towers and defensive structures. The island was used as a prison during the the French Revolution and occupied by German soldiers during WWII. In 2023, the French President visited to celebrate the abbey’s 1000-year anniversary.

On our descent down the mountain, the path led us through a seagull nesting area and we got to see lots of baby gulls, which was a nice surprise!

We had lunch on the island at a little hole in the wall with silver candelabras on the table. The small menu consisted of gallettes (savory buckwheat pancakes). We all chose different toppings: I had sausage, onion and mustard, Josh had sausage and potatoes and M had the ham and eggs. We all shared a delicious butter and sugar crepe for dessert.

Back in Saint-Malo we spent a leisurely evening strolling along the seashore by way of a huge stone boardwalk.

M and Josh ventured down to the water and - of course - M got too close and soaked her pants and feet. It was a cool evening and so an unplanned and unbudgeted for stop at a fancy French sock shop saved the evening and boosted M’s moral long enough to get through dinner. $20 for one pair of basic children’s socks should be illegal!

But, it was worth it for the delicious seafood dinner we had at Café de L’Ouest. M had mussels which she devoured with glee (and occasionally regret if she shelled one she thought was “too cute”).

I had a linguine covered in a thick and lemony cream sauce and topped with a soft and briney caviar. Josh had the steak and fries and it did not disappoint either.

After dinner we ended the day with an extended ride on the town ferris wheel. We were the only patrons so they let us keep going and going. The sunset view of this seaside town is a memory I want to keep.