Caves and Castles

The last few days were spent exploring the French countryside of the Loire Valley. The views from the car have been incredible. Sprawling green fields dotted with sheep, steeples of centuries old churches peaking out on the horizon, little medieval towns straight from a fairytale.

We’ve made quite a few stops along the way! The first stop was to explore the caves of the Ackerman Winery (established in 1811).

The self-guided tour ended with an eight wine tasting (and a sweet little juice tasting for M). The wines were mostly sparkling and we enjoyed a deep red sparkling wine that was unique compared to anything we’ve ever had before.

The grounds of the winery were beautiful and we loved having the freedom to explore the caves where the wines were stored. There was an especially fun exhibit where we got to smell different wine notes (like peach and violet and grapefruit) and try to guess the smell. M was really good at it!

There was also an exhibit featuring Cellar Master Sèverine Lepaul - a woman! She is only the 5th ever cellar master of the winery and one of the few women in the industry! M and I were so excited to learn about her!

Later in the day we visited “Rapunzel’s Tower” (at least that’s what we told M). Truthfully, it was the Royal Fortress of Chinon.

The grounds were picturesque and the history was even more stunning.

We learned of Eleanor of Aquitaine, Dutchess of Aquitaine, Queen of France and Queen of England! Truly a remarkable woman known for her sharp mind, charisma and ambition.

She became Dutchess of Aquitaine from 1137-1204 as the eldest child when her father died. She then married Louis VII and was Queen of France from 1137-1152. She and Louis VII had their marriage annulled after they failed to create a male heir to the throne. That same year she married Henry II and served as Queen of England from 1154-1189.

She owned most of southwestern France through her Dutchess role and was one of the most powerful and weathly people in the world during the High Middle Ages. She even accompanied King Louis VII on the crusades as one of only a few female crusaders.

During her marriage to King Henry II of England, she was imprisoned at the Royal Fortress of Chinon for supporting a 1173 revolt against him by their sons. When her son Richard I took the throne in 1189, he released his mother and she ruled in his frequent absences. After Richard died in 1199 she successfully campaigned for her younger son John to become king, allowing her to maintain her status a regent queen.

A brilliant boss babe. And there are definitely way worse places to be imprisoned than Rapunzel’s Tower!

Our accommodations for the evening were at Château de Rochecotte. M leaned way too hard into her Queendom at this place and even I felt like French royalty for the night. Have a sleepover at a royal cousin’s summer estate, perhaps!

It was an impeccably decorated 18th century château with beautiful gardens and an outdoor pool. We had dinner in the solarium of the hotel restaurant.

We selected from the three course tasting menu with carefully selected wine pairings by the staff sommelier. It was definitely the fanciest dining experience M has ever had and top 5 for us for sure!

Josh had a marinated smoked salmon with dill and pickled veggies followed by a guinea fowl dish served with palenta and a mushroom tart topped with cocoa salt.

I started with a foie gras served with Ibèrico ham, corn tuile and tapered pear. Then, the best dish of our table, a veal shank a fluffy lemon foam, peas and a stuffed morel mushroom.

Even M had the full experience with a fruit plate starter and a main course of fish filet, sweet potato purée and roasted veggies.

M and Josh had crème brûlée for dessert and I had some chocolate ball filled with cream and chocolate mousse.

We were so stuffed we barely made it up the stairs to our spacious room! The room was simple but elegant! The bathroom featured a huge tub (both and M and I were thrilled to finally be able to take baths after so many days of hotel showers!). M also had her own bed and Josh and I were thrilled to have a bed without our not-so-tiny-anymore third wheel crammed in the middle.